When we think of vitamin C, we tend to imagine kiwis and orange juice rather than a serum or day cream. Yet, this ingredient is now a staple in anti-aging cosmetic care.
So, what are the benefits of vitamin C for the skin? At what level does it work? And which form should you use for optimal effectiveness?
All the answers in this article.
The benefits of vitamin C in a few lines
- Vitamin C is an essential nutrient for the human body, which cannot synthesize it on its own. It must therefore be obtained through diet, supplements, or cosmetic products.
- On the skin, it has a beneficial effect on collagen production, dark spots, and barrier function. It helps fight the signs of aging.
- Vitamin C is a very fragile ingredient. This is why FILORGA favors stabilized forms of vitamin C in its formulas.
What is vitamin C, this molecule essential to the human body?
Vitamin C, whose chemical name isL-ascorbic acid, is an essential nutrient that plays a crucial role in many physiological processes in the human body. It is a water-soluble vitamin (the correct term is hydrosoluble) that is destroyed by air, light, and heat. Remember this last point; it is essential and we will come back to it later.
The Effects and Actions of Vitamin C on the Human Body
Vitamin C contributes to many vital functions, including the following:
- It contributes to theproper functioning of the immune system, thus strengthening the body's natural defenses.
- It isessential for the formation ofcollagen, a protein important for the structure of the skin, but also of bones, ligaments, tendons and cartilage!
- It contributes to normal energy-yielding metabolism, thus helping toreduce fatigue.
- It facilitates theabsorption of iron.
- It protects cells against oxidative stress,thus fighting cellular aging.
- It contributes to theproper functioning of the nervous system and to normal psychological functions.
- It plays a role in thehealing process of wounds and fractures.
A severe vitamin C deficiency can lead to scurvy, a disease once common among sailors who lacked fresh fruits and vegetables during their long voyages.
Where can I find vitamin C?
Like all water-soluble vitamins, vitamin C cannot be stored in the body (unlike fat-soluble vitamins like vitamins E and D, which can be stored in our fatty tissues). It is therefore necessary to regularly obtain it through food.
The best foods to get a good dose of vitamin C are:
- Exotic and tropical fruits such as guava or kiwi.
- Citrus fruits such as oranges, grapefruit, and lemons.
- Berries such as blackcurrants, strawberries, raspberries, and gooseberries.
- Green vegetablessuch as broccoli, cabbage, and spinach.
- Peppers.
Note that vitamin C content varies depending on freshness, season, and preparation method. Since cooking and exposure to heat can reduce this content, it is best to consume fresh, raw fruits and vegetables. span data-mce-fragment="1" style="font-weight: 400;"> span>
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An anti-aging action
As mentioned above, vitamin C isessential for the production and structuring of collagen fibers. This molecule, known for its tensile strength, plays a key role in maintaining skin firmness.
Fibroblasts, cells located in the dermis, synthesize collagen, as well as elastin fibers and hyaluronic acid.Collagen synthesis depends on the presence of vitamin C, which acts as a cofactor for the enzymes involved in its production.
With age, fibroblasts become less efficient, leading to a reduction in the natural production of collagen, both in quantity and quality. The skin thus loses its suppleness and resistance, and its regenerative capacity diminishes, thus promoting the appearance of wrinkles.
Stimulating collagen production by providing vitamin C to the skin is therefore an effective way tofight wrinkles and skin aging.
An antioxidant action
In addition to its anti-aging properties, vitamin C is also a powerful active ingredient that helps neutralize free radicals generated byoxidative stress (also called oxidative stress).
This stress is a natural mechanism that the body knows how to manage when it remains within normal limits. But factors such as pollution, UV rays, or even lack of sleep can amplify it andmake it uncontrollable for the body's own defenses. Hence the importance of supplementing with vitamin C.
Finally, still with a view to combating oxidative stress, it should be noted that vitamin C provides additional protection against damage caused by UV rays, although it obviously does not replace the use ofa good sunscreen.
A brightening and anti-dark spot action
Vitamin C also helps inhibit the production of melanin, a localized excess of which is the cause of dark spots on the skin. This vitamin is therefore used for itsbrightening properties to even out skin tone and texture.
To learn more about this topic, read our article dedicated to skin spots and Pregnancy Mask.
A Protective Action
Alongside all these actions, vitamin Cstrengthens the skin barrier.
How to use vitamin C on the skin?
While vitamin C intake is necessary for the body to function properly in general, primarily through food but also through quality dietary supplements, it is generally not sufficient to have a visible effect on the skin. This is particularly true as we age and/or are regularly exposed to external aggressions.
It is therefore useful touse daily skincare products that include vitamin C toslow down skin aging. This is one of the first recommendations made by cosmetic doctors, in addition to procedures such as mesotherapy or peels.
Is vitamin C photosensitizing?
It's common to hear that vitamin C is photosensitizing, meaning that it makes the skin more sensitive to the sun. This is completely FALSE! Vitamin C does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun; on the contrary, it is recommended to combat oxidative stress caused by UV rays. But where does this false belief come from? It's actually a confusion between the terms "photosensitizing" and "photosensitive." While vitamin C is not photosensitizing, it is photosensitive. This means that the molecule is sensitive to light. Indeed, vitamin C is a fragile molecule that, due to its antioxidant properties, oxidizes in air, light, and heat.
This unstable nature of vitamin C poses real challenges in cosmetics. Due to its instability, it can become ineffective if not properly formulated. This is why many cosmetic manufacturers use stabilized forms of ascorbic acid to ensure its effectiveness in serums and creams. Formulators thus have several synthetic compounds developed in the laboratory at their disposal. They choose which one to usedepending on the final pH of the formulas (depending on the acidity or alkalinity required by the other active ingredients, for example),by adapting the concentrations (an area where "more" is not synonymous with "better"). Thepackaging is also adapted to limit the passage of UV rays and protect the vitamin C from light.
The example of ascorbyl glucoside.
In this active ingredient,vitamin C is coupled with glucose to produce ascorbyl glucoside. Glucose thus protects vitamin C and it is only once in the epidermis that the enzyme α-glucoside (naturally present in the body) will cut the glucose to release vitamin C. It will then be able to exert its antioxidant action, boosting collagen production and regulating melanin production to reduce the risk of the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots.
HYDRA-AOX [5], the intensive antioxidant serum
To conclude this article, we wanted to introduce our serumHYDRA-AOX [5].
This moisturizer contains 5 different antioxidant active ingredients, including the aforementioned ascorbyl glucoside. The latter is incorporated at a concentration of 2%, a concentration that guarantees effectiveness without damaging the skin.
HYDRA-AOX [5] also contains hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin and correct the first signs of aging. It protects the skin against the degradation of hyaluronic acid and collagen under the influence of external aggressions such as UV rays and pollution, thus preventing skin aging.
HYDRA-AOX Serum [5] is suitable for all skin types, brightens the complexion, restores radiance, refines skin texture, and smooths fine lines.
