Everything you need to know about the INCI list — the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients

• The INCI list was created to standardize the nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients.
• It is used worldwide and is mandatory for all products sold in Europe.
• It complies with strict rules that help consumers make the best choice when it comes to cosmetics.

The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list was created in 1973 by a cosmetics trade association in the United States called the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA — now the Personal Care Products Council). At the time, the need to standardize ingredient nomenclature had become obvious, particularly for reasons of transparency and safety.

The fact is that the different commercial and scientific names used for the same ingredient could be confusing. This list then reached Europe, where its use on packaging became compulsory in 1998.

It has grown and evolved over the decades to meet ever-increasing regulatory requirements. The INCI list is now recognized internationally and used by cosmetics manufacturers worldwide to guarantee clear, consistent communication on product formulation. This means that if you buy a product in New York, Paris, Berlin, or Tokyo, you know that the list of ingredients will be worded in the same way.

The mandatory use of the INCI list is based on several basic considerations:

• Transparency and trust: Consumers need to know what they’re putting on their skin. Standardized nomenclature means that product compositions can be easily understood, regardless of brand or country of origin.

• Safety: The INCI list makes it easy to identify potential allergens or irritants. People with sensitive skin or at-risk individuals can easily avoid certain products with a quick glance at the label.

• International regulations: As mentioned above, the use of the INCI list is often a legal requirement in many countries. Such international consistency also simplifies the import and export of cosmetic products.

When you purchase a cosmetic treatment, the INCI list is generally found on the back of the packaging. But if you’re not used to it, the list isn’t always easy to understand. Here’s some advice to help you get started:

• Mandatory labeling: All ingredients must be specified after the word “ingredients” on the packaging. No surprises here — they’re all in the same place.

• Use of the INCI nomenclature: Manufacturers must refer to the INCI glossary of common ingredient names. An important detail is that ingredient naming is standardized: Latin for plant extracts and English for chemical ingredients. This is why you’ll never see “ vitamin C” in a list of ingredients, but “ascorbic acid,” the chemical name of this molecule. The same goes for “shea butter,” which will appear under the name “Butyrospermum parkii.”

• Ingredient order: They are listed according to their concentration in the product in descending order. Generally, the first three or four ingredients account for more than 80% of the formula. Ingredients present in cosmetics at less than 1% concentration can be listed in any order. This detail is important but shouldn’t be overemphasized. When it comes to an ingredient’s concentration, more doesn’t necessarily mean better, and most active ingredients are highly effective at low doses.

• Fragrances and aromas: To protect trade secrets, manufacturers can simply use the terms “perfume,” “fragrance,” or “aroma” to refer to the ingredients that give a product its distinctive scent. However, major allergens present in fragrances are required to be specifically indicated. 

These rules ensure greater transparency and allow consumers to better understand the cosmetic products they’re putting on their skin.

But knowledge of these legal requirements doesn’t mean you’ll be able to tell the difference between the compounds in a formula. For that, read on!

At FILORGA, we have mastered the art of combining advanced formulations with superior product feel. Not only are our treatments effective, but they’re also pleasing to use, day and night. This is made possible by the extensive know-how of our experts, who are able to consistently determine the optimal quantities of each ingredient. 

And yet, these exacting scientific and technical standards would be meaningless without the commitment to transparency that we have always upheld. So, to illustrate our point, let’s take a look at the label for our NCEF-REVITALIZE SERUM.

Let’s examine it together.

 

Active ingredients

Active ingredients are ingredients that act on the skin to produce specific benefits. They are responsible for the effectiveness of the product. Some of the most well-known include:

• Hyaluronic acid (whose INCI name is SODIUM HYALURONATE).
• Collagen boosters.
• Vitamins and minerals.
• Amino acids.
• Antioxidants.
• etc.

On our label, the active ingredients of our star compound, NCEF [New Cellular Encapsulated Factors], are in pink, and the formula’s other active ingredients are in yellow.

 

Moisturizing and emollient agents

These allow active ingredients to combine more easily in the formula and to provide moisturization and nourishment. In this case, we have:

• Water! (AQUA).
• Excipients/solvents/humectants (PENTYLENE GLYCOL, PROPANEDIOL, and GLYCERIN) that retain water and moisturize the skin. By the way, names ending in “DIOL” belong to the glycol family.

As you can see, they come first on the list, meaning they occupy the largest volume in the final product.

 

Emulsifiers 

Most cosmetics consist of a blend of two phases: the aqueous phase and the oil phase. This is known as an emulsion. Emulsifiers help ensure the long-term stability of this blend.

The NCEF-REVITALIZE SERUM contains:

• PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL. To easily identify this family, look for the prefix “PEG” or “PPG.” This ingredient binds the oil and water together and renders the active ingredients soluble.

• POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIPALMITATE, and GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE. They belong to the family of fatty acid esters. These are compound names with a first part ending in “YL” and a second part ending in “ATE.” Another fatty acid ester is frequently found in cosmetics but with a slightly different name: CAPRYLIC (or CAPRIC) TRIGLYCERIDE.

 

Texturing agents

Texturing agents (thickeners, gelling agents, etc.) can be used to fine-tune the viscosity, look, and feel of a formula to ensure the desired sensory experience. In this case it’s XANTHAN GUM, which is also often found in food.

 

Preservatives

Antibacterial/antifungal agents protect the formula by inhibiting the development of microorganisms like bacteria, yeasts, fungi, etc.

In our serum, we use SODIUM BENZOATE and BENZOIC ACID for this purpose.

 

pH adjusters

These ingredients are used to regulate the pH of formulas to match the pH of the skin. Our experts chose to include SODIUM CITRATE and CITRIC ACID in the NCEF-REVITALIZE SERUM.

 

Colorants and fragrances

These ingredients (PERFUMES or FRAGRANCES) enhance the product’s olfactory qualities to ensure optimal enjoyment during use. FILORGA’s signature scent features notes of bergamot, rose, and green tea.

 

Now that you’re armed with all this information, it’s your turn! Take your favorite FILORGA product from your bathroom and see if you can identify the ingredients!