Everything you need to know about chemical peels — so you can eliminate imperfections and restore your skin's radiance

• There are two types of peels: mechanical peels (i.e., manual scrubs, and so on) and chemical peels. In this article, we’re looking at the latter.

• Chemical peels can be used for both superficial and much deeper treatments.

• Among other things, they help rejuvenate the skin, soften certain scars, and restore evenness and radiance to the complexion.

• Laboratoires FILORGA has a range of treatments that can either be used alongside cosmetic procedures or on their own.

Cell renewal slows down due to both age and environmental factors. This process involves the removal of dead cells from the epidermis, the skin’s outer layer, so that new cells can take their place by rising to the surface.

Skin, like every other organ in the human body, is undergoing constant renewal. This natural regenerative process takes place throughout life and is vital for:

• Keeping a radiant complexion.

• Maintaining the skin’s youthful appearance, elasticity, and firmness.

• Keeping up the skin’s protective barrier function to protect against pathogenic microorganisms and other external aggressors (cold, pollution, UV radiation, etc.).

• Repairing any damage, like when a wound needs to heal.

Peels use chemical solutions to stimulate the removal of dead cells from the top layers of the skin. Part of the epidermis is effectively removed, creating a controlled wound that the body then works to heal once the cosmetic procedure is complete.

The depth of the peel is determined by a number of factors, including the active ingredients used and the specific medical technique employed.

The healthcare professional can recommend one of three different types of peel, depending on the specific needs of the patient.

 

Superficial peels

How they work

These peels use Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids  (AHA and BHA). They affect:

• The stratum corneum. This is the outermost layer of the skin. Peels exfoliate corneocytes, the dead cells present on the skin’s surface, triggering desquamation (meaning the skin will indeed “peel” a little after treatment).

• And the first layer of the dermis, the papillary dermis. Here, peels trigger an increase in dermal collagen production.

This results in the stratum corneum becoming thinner, the epidermis becoming thicker, and melanin being more evenly distributed. The actual effects of this are:

•  A complexion with improved radiance and evenness.

•  Smoother skin texture.

• Softened fine lines.

• Smaller pores and fewer imperfections.

 

Number of sessions and results

Four sessions spaced two weeks to one month apart are generally recommended.

The results are immediate and last 1 to 2 years.

 

Medical indications

This procedure can be performed on any skin type, but is only indicated for superficial processes such as aging caused by exposure to the sun (photoaging), light skin blemishes, or acne. It generally doesn’t require a local anesthetic and causes only mild discomfort.

 

Medium peels

How they work

Medium-depth peels go as far as the reticular dermis, the second, bottom layer of the dermis. More vigorous than superficial peels, they boost cell renewal by stimulating collagen and elastin production. They also rearrange collagen fibers, resulting in visibly rejuvenated skin. Medium peels also exfoliate the epidermis.

This technique:

• Improves complexion radiance and evenness.

• Regenerates the epidermis.

• Smooths wrinkles.

• Firms the skin.

• Corrects blemishes and softens acne scars.

The most commonly used active ingredient in medium peels is trichloroacetic acid (TCA).

 

Number of sessions and results

Given the treatment’s intensity, it can only be performed once a year. The results are visible after a month and can last up to several years.

 

Medical indications

Medium peels provide a more thorough treatment of skin complaints than superficial peels. This means they’re much more aggressive on skin tissues, and even though the effects are impressive, it’s worth remembering that recovery will take longer — the skin will continue to peel for 1 week — and there’s a risk of burns or areas of depigmentation.

 

Deep peels

This kind of procedure is rarely performed any more, as it causes too much damage to the skin and has too great an impact on the structure of skin tissue. So, we won’t go into detail here.

 

Some general recommendations

As you may have gathered, peels aren’t trivial procedures. They require that certain precautions be taken.

You should avoid:

• Having a

  peel carried out in the summer. The skin will be far too fragile to withstand the sun, potentially leading to serious complications.

• Using several products containing acids or retinol at the same time, to avoid skincare “cocktailing” and the risk of making the skin oversensitive.

 

It is, however, crucial to use UV protection after a peel for as long as prescribed by the doctor who performed the procedure, even in winter and on gray or rainy days.

Laboratoires FILORGA’s peels have been designed for use alone or as a complement to aesthetic medicine procedures.

We have a number of products with different textures and methods of use, making it simple to choose the ones that are right for you. 

SLEEP & PEEL 4.5

As a one-month treatment

A night cream that’s ideal for sensitive skin, SLEEP & PEEL improves skin texture and refreshes the complexion while you sleep. Drawing inspiration from professional peels, it contains a complex of hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs) that stimulates cell renewal. It also contains a soothing brown seaweed extract, providing mild yet effective resurfacing benefits. 

 

As a complement to a professional peel

This cream can be applied every evening during the month preceding a professional peel to help prepare the skin. It’s also very effective at maintaining results between two peel protocols.

OXYGEN-PEEL

A lotion for daily use, at the start of your skincare routine, to remove dead skin cells. It can also be used just before a professional peel.

This exfoliating formula for the face combines re-oxygenating micro-peeling benefits with hyaluronic acid for truly radiant skin.

SKIN-PREP enzymatic exfoliating cream

This rinse-off exfoliating cream, for use twice a week, features enzymatic peel technology. Designed to eliminate blackheads and shrink pores, SKIN-PREP instantly gives your skin a fresh new look*.

Drawing inspiration from professional cleansing techniques, it combines a stabilized papain-based enzyme complex with volcanic sand. The result is simultaneous mechanical and enzymatic exfoliation, providing intense cleansing. Enriched with niacinamide (vitamin B3) known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, it respects the skin barrier and is suitable for sensitive skin.

*Self-assessment – 32 volunteers – after initial application of the enzymatic exfoliating cream.