Cosmetic active ingredients: everything you need to know about concentration and dosage

• Active ingredients are chosen for their specific effects on the skin, such as moisturizing, firming, and reducing the signs of aging.

• Higher concentrations don’t necessarily mean better results.

• Ingredient synergy and the product’s overall formulation are crucial.

• It’s important to choose treatments whose active ingredients have been carefully measured and are suitable for your skin type.

The active ingredients of a cosmetic treatment are the compounds that have specific effects on the skin. They can be of either natural and plant origin or of synthetic origin (https://fr.filorga.com/magazine/choix-des-ingredients-cosmetiques-la-demarche-de-filorga/). Some of the most commonly used include moisturizing agents like hyaluronic acid, vitamins like vitamin C, and exfoliating agents like fruit acids (AHAs).

Cosmetic ingredients are chosen according to their ability to address specific skin problems and factors. For example, they’re used to:

• Nourish dry skin.
• Restore skin firmness.
• Reduce visible signs of aging.
• Soften expression lines.
• And much more.

However, the mere presence of these active ingredients in a treatment is not enough — their effectiveness is largely dependent on their concentration and the way in which they are incorporated into a formula.

A common assumption is that a higher concentration of an active ingredient means a more effective product, but this is a misconception for two reasons:

• In skincare treatments, an active ingredient never operates on its own. Ingredients must work in synergy, and too much or too little of a certain active ingredient can inhibit or “derail” the activity of others.

• As in many other fields, the dose makes the poison. In other words, above a certain concentration, an active ingredient could be counterproductive, ineffective, or even prove to be an irritant. You can count on our experts to be fully aware of these variables, and they have extensive experience in creating treatments that ensure optimal skin tolerance for our customers.

An excellent example of this is botulinum toxin, which is widely used in aesthetic medicine to treat wrinkles. In high doses, it’s among the deadliest of plant poisons, but in low doses, it’s safe to use as a treatment for expression lines. 

So, when you’re looking at a product’s list of ingredients, it’s crucial not to judge its effectiveness solely by the concentration of active ingredients. The formulation as a whole, its pH, and the synergy between the different ingredients all play a vital role.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C (whose scientific name is ascorbic acid) is known for its antioxidant and radiance-enhancing properties. It helps neutralize free radicals, minimize signs of aging, and smooth skin tone.

However, at excessively high concentrations (from 10% to 20%), it can cause skin irritation, especially when combined with other acids.

Peptides

Peptides are a very popular ingredient in anti-aging skincare treatments, notably for their ability to stimulate collagen production and combat premature skin aging. Although used in very low concentrations (around 0.01%), their effectiveness is still remarkable.

Fruit acids (AHAs)

Fruit acids, or AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), are used in cosmetics for their ability to gently exfoliate the skin. They help eliminate dead cells, improve cell renewal, and brighten the complexion. 

They are effective in day-to-day skincare treatments in a range of concentrations (from 5% to 20%). Higher concentrations are reserved for treatments administered in aesthetic clinics under professional supervision. In either case, there is a risk of irritation and increased sensitivity to the sun. Avoid using them in summer, and make sure to follow the instructions on the packaging.

Hyaluronic acid

A moisturizer formulated around hyaluronic acid will be effective even if the latter’s concentration is low; this active ingredient has the ability to retain large quantities of water, allowing it to provide intensive moisturization even at low doses.

As we’ve seen, the concentration of a cosmetic active ingredient is a key consideration when choosing a skincare product. Since higher concentrations don’t always mean improved effectiveness — and can actually lead to undesirable side effects in some cases — it’s essential to choose products suited to your skin’s type and needs that have been optimally formulated using a solid scientific approach and rigorous clinical studies. 

In conclusion, it’s worth bearing in mind that Laboratoires FILORGA uses active ingredients at concentrations that are proven to be effective and that all our treatments meet the same high standards of quality and safety.